#Passat eng light compressor install#
Follow the directions with your gauge and install it to a can of oil charge. Reinstall the new valve using the 4mm hexes first, then reinstall the aluminum retaining clip and the refrigerant lines. It should look like this when you are done: If you have to do this, I recommend soldering the wires and then using heat shrink tubing: In my car, the plug was a different style, an so I had to reuse the connector from the old compressor. Make sure there is a nice tight fit to the machined metal surface. Replace the o-rings on the refrigerant lines and then install to the back of the compressor. Next remove the factory plugs seen in the pic above using the 6mm hex.
Reinstall the belt making sure it's on all the pulleys correctly. Locate the 17mm bolts and install the new compressor using them. You are ready to install the new compressor. Next, reinstall the bottom refrigerant line after you replace the o-ring. The 6mm hex must be fully tightened so there is no gap between the refrigerant line and the top of the receiver. This will prevent you from torquing (and breaking) the condenser. Once it starts getting hard to turn, go ahead and fully tighten the retaining band with the 5mm hex, after you make sure it's up high enough in the slot. Slide the receiver-drier up in the holder and align the opening with the connection to the condenser, then reinstall the 6mm hex nut into the top thread. Remove the old o-rings from the refrigerant lines and replace with the appropriate size. Slide the holder back together and reinstall the 5mm hex nut, but do not fully tighten yet. Next, if there is charge in the system, make sure it's evacuated and then use the 6mm hex key to remove the refrigerant lines from the rear: Put it up out of the way and try not to let it come of the other pulleys. Remove the serpentine belt by using a crescent wrench on the tensioner and just slip the belt off. You will see the compressor right at the bottom of the front of the engine: Mine had already leaked out.įirst, put the car up on jack stands in the front and remove the passenger side wheel, skid plate, and side skirt. If there is charge in the system, the environment will thank you if you take it to a shop to have the refrigerant recovered. You will need the following tools: 17mm socket, phillips screwdriver, pry bar, adjustable crescent wrench, 4, 5, and 6mm hex keys, possibly wire cutters, solder and heat shrink tubing. I purchased O-rings for the system, oil charge with R-134, and a gauge/connector at Advance Auto Parts for about $20.00 for all. R-134a, The enviro-safe is a hydrocarbon, not chloro-or fluorocarbon. It turns out I only needed 2 cans to do this job, about 10 ozs., which is the equivalent of 32 ozs or R-134. Next, I ordered 6 cans Enviro-Safe Industrial 12a for $45.00 from. The receiver drier removes impurities and moisture and must be replaced whenever the system is open. In doing this job, I discovered that the receiver-drier is supposed to be replaced every 3 years, even if the system seems to be working OK. I'm not sure the expansion valve was bad, but I didn't want to take any chances of having to order more parts. I ordered the following parts from Impex: AC Expansion Valve COST: $35.71 2. I diagnosed this as compressor failure and a leak at the shaft seal, after inspecting all the hoses and the condenser in front of the radiator.
There was little charge left in the system. The a/c button on the dash was lighting up, but there was no voltage at the wiring harness. The symptoms I was having initially were poor cooling (compressor was engaged), then severe noise like a bucket of bolts, and eventually total loss of function, after a couple more days. By reading this post you can probably do it in about 3 hours with no complications. The whole process took me about 5 hours, including a couple mistakes.
#Passat eng light compressor how to#
After searching the forums for a post on how to repair my air conditioning, I really didn't find anything in detail, so I just jumped in and did it myself.
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